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Gate Operator Troubleshooting – Article by Tim Nordstrom

AAARemotes > Categories  > Gate Operator Troubleshooting – Article by Tim Nordstrom

Gate Operator Troubleshooting – Article by Tim Nordstrom

Installing a gate operator system is just the beginning. Maintaining and troubleshooting the system are equally important. Everyone is happy when the installation is complete and working properly, but what happens when the system fails? End users expect gate problems to be solved immediately. If you use proper equipment and correct installation techniques, you will be able to identify and solve most problems quickly and efficiently.

A digital multi-meter is a tool every service truck must have when troubleshooting gate operator systems. A quality meter measures both AC and DC voltage, minimum and maximum voltage, Ohms continuity, capacitance, and AC/DC amperage draw. Expect to pay approximately $150 for a meter with all of these necessary features.

Power-related issues commonly cause gate operator problems. Most gate operators have both a primary (high) and secondary (low) voltage. The primary is generally used to power the electric motor, and the secondary is used to power up accessories. Usually the primary or incoming voltage is 115 Vac and the secondary or outgoing voltage is 24 Vac or Vdc. However an increasing number of operators are completely “low voltage.” They have an incoming and secondary voltage of 12/24 AC/DC. These voltages are crucial. A quality digital meter will display these voltages to a decimal point.

The first troubleshooting step is determining whether it’s a high or low voltage problem. If there is no primary power, check the circuit breaker or on/off switch. Do not measure the voltage while the operator is static, or not running. A proper voltage check is only obtained while the operator is under “load.” While the operator is running, set the meter to its min/max setting. The meter will check and store the highest and lowest voltages that occur during the cycle. If there is a significant voltage spike or dip, this needs to be corrected before proceeding.

When checking for secondary power, first make sure the meter is set properly. Some operators use a 12/24 Vac secondary, while others use 12/24 Vdc. If the operator is Vdc, observe polarity. The red meter leg goes on the positive terminal and the black meter leg on the negative terminal. If there is no voltage, check the fuse(s).

Fuses must be checked with a meter. Set the meter to Ohms (this is the symbol that looks like an upside down horseshoe). Next, remove the fuse from the board. Touch one end of a meter leg to one end of the fuse, then touch the remaining meter leg and fuse end together. If the fuse is good, the meter will “zero” out or show 0.00 (or very close). Some meters have an audible tone that alerts you that the fuse is OK. If the fuse is bad or “open” the meter will show “OL.”

Always replace a bad fuse with a properly rated fuse. For example, if an 8 amp fuse is bad, replace it with an 8 amp. Never replace a fuse with a higher-rated fuse because it could cause permanent damage to the board. In an emergency, a lower-rated fuse can be used, but replace it with the correctly rated fuse as soon as possible.

If the operator still will not run and there is not a power or fuse problem, check whether there is an operator or accessory problem. First, remove all accessories (keypads, radios, loops, etc.) to isolate the operator. Using a short piece of wire, momentarily short the open terminals on the operator. If it still will not open, the problem is at the gate operator. Next, examine the motor for power. If there is no power to the motor, the circuit board may be bad. However, if the operator does run, then there is a problem with one of the accessories.

One by one, rewire each device that was removed. Test for operation after each accessory is hooked up until the device is found that won’t open the gate. At the device, place a momentary short across the wires going to the open terminals of the operator. If the operator does not run, check for continuity on these wires by taking one end and twisting the wires together. Set the meter to Ohms and test the opposite ends. If the meter does not zero out, the wires are broken and need to be replaced.

However, if the wires prove to be good and shorting them caused the gate to open, then there is a problem with the device itself. Depending on the device, make sure that a valid open command (entry code, card, etc.) is programmed. Leaving the meter set to Ohms, put the meter legs on the common and normally open and give an open command. If the meter does not show continuity or zero out, the device is defective and needs to be replaced.

There are numerous other functions the meter can perform to further test an automatic gate operating system. When you use the proper equipment, you’ll be able to identify and solve most problems faster and more efficiently.

This article reprinted from Professional Door Dealer

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