1. PURPOSE-These instructions are
intended to show you how to install a Heavy-Duty residential garage
door in a prepared opening. Since the installation of this garage door
requires advanced mechanical skills, we urge you to read the complete
installation manual before beginning the installation process. If you
have any concerns about your ability to properly install this door
after you read the instructions, we urge you to consult a professional
installer in your area.
NOTE: All instructions are given
from the point of view of someone inside looking out.
2. GETTING STARTED-Since the right tools and supplies
are essential for a safe and easy installment, we have provided a
list of basic tools that will be required for installing this product.
Tools marked with an (*) asterisk will greatly improve the installation
Assortment of screwdrivers
Small hand ratchet and 7/16" 12-pt. socket
Locking pliers (vise-grips)
Electric drill with 5/32" and 1/4 drill bits
7/8" hole saw (if using lock)
Speed (crank) handle
7/16", 1/2" and 9/16" open-end wrenches
Small step ladder
1/2" cold-rolled steel winding bars
Knife, tape measure, saw
Electric of air impact wrench
Diagonal or wire cutters
One dozen 16-penny nails
Exterior paint (see painting details on round label)
CHECKING THE MATERIALS-Using the lists following,
verify that you have the materials needed for this installation and
that there is no damage to anything from packing, shipping, etc.
If by chance you find any damaged or missing item's, please contact
your authorized dealer and the problem will be resolved.
items are in opposite-handed pairs, and may or may not be marked
by LH or RH. Hinges and track brackets should be stamped with a
number with the smaller being mounted lower on the door. Strut
counts vary by door width, height, material, gauge and track.
Your door package should include the following:
- Door sections, one with bottom weatherstrip.
- Track bundle (four pieces).
- Hardware carton.
- One or more lengths of punched angle. (optional)
- Three pieces of vinyl-edged door stop. (optional)
- One steel tubular shaft.
- One or two springs.*
- Zero to four steel reinforcement struts.*
*Varies by door size.
Your hardware carton should include the following.
10 (12 on 5-sect. door)
|3. Cable drums
||1 pair, left and right
|4. End bearing plates
||1 pair, left and right
|5. Center bearing plate
|6. Bottom cable/roller fixtures
||1 pair, left and right
|7. Adjustable top fixtures
||2 (coiled together)
|9. #5 Track brackets
|10. #6 Track brackets
|11. Track flag brackets
||1 pair, left and right
|12. Grab handles
|13. Lock handle*
|14. Latch ass. bag*
|15. Pull rope*
|16. 2-Hole step plates*
|17. Bolt bag
*Items are used with manually operated doors only.
They are not supplied and should not be used with a door opener.
||Number of stiles* (per section)
|#1 Hinge (5-sect. door only)
|#4 Hinge (5-sect. door only)
*A stile is a vertical structure on the back of all
sections that everything, even the face of the door attaches to.
3. CHECKING THE OPENING-Check the wood framing
for firmness, especially the center pad that holds the spring's main
bracket. This short piece of wood (15" min.) holds the entire
force of the spring as it balances the door 's weight and tries to
twist out from the wall at the bottom, and into the wall at the top.
Being short, it tends to split readily so at this time we recommend
you to lag (4-3" lag screws), nail (6-16 pd. nails), or anchor
(4-3" sleeve anchors) it to the wall.
pre-drill holes so you won't split the wood. If by chance you happen
to split the wood, immediately replace it with a quality wood.
Measure the garage opening. The height and width should not be appreciably
different than the nominal door size. If it measures low, then the
door pattern may be obscured by the framing. If high or wide, then
build the opening in with appropriate material. If narrow, you run
a risk of not having enough wood to fasten the track brackets to.
You are now ready to set the stop
4. SETTING THE STOP-Tack the stop to each side
jamb and the header, flush with the inside edge of the jamb and header.
This will prevent the sections from falling through the opening when
you start stacking the sections.
You are not ready to build the sections
5. BUILDING THE SECTION-On this and the following
pages you will build the section from the bottom to the top. This
will enable you to stack the finished sections in the opening in
the correct order, from the bottom to the top.
Lay the sections face down on a pair of sawhorses (or clean floor)
with the upper edges away from you, top section first (on the bottom
of the stack) staggering or stepping them toward you.
The bottom section has a vinyl seal on it's lower edge, so use this
to determine the top and bottom edges of the sections when stacking
Now that you have the sections in place, you are ready to lay out
the hardware on the sections. First, remove everything from the hardware
carton except the cable drums, bearing plates, track brackets, and
the track flag brackets. These will be used in the installation later.
NOTE: All hardware in attached to the door sections
with 3/4" sheet metal lag screws. They require a 3/16" or
5/32" pre-drilled hold as they are not self-drilling. The majority
of these holes should be already drilled from the factory.
Looking down on stacked sections.
6. BOTTOM SECTION-First attach the bottom fixtures
even with the bottom corners of the door section. Next, attach the
#1 hinges through the pre -drilled holes at the top of all the stiles.
If you have two or more struts, attach one as low on the section
as possible, but above the rollers, using 2 lags per stile. Next,
slip the looped cable ends onto their studs on the bottom fixtures.
Roll the excess cable and tuck in under a stile for now. Next, cut
the vinyl bottom seal to the length of the section leaving an additional
1/2" on each end.
Next, put a roller at each corner of the section, 2 for the hinges
and 2 for the bottom fixtures.
7. SECTION #2-Attach the #2 hinge through the pre-drilled
holes at the top of both of the end stiles. Next, attach #1 hinges
on the center and intermediate stiles the same way. If you have 3
or more struts attach one just below the hinges using the above instructions.
Next, put a roller into each end hinge.
8. SECTION #3-Attach #3 hinges through the pre-drilled
holes at the top of both of the end stiles. Attach #1 hinges on the
center and intermediate stiles the same way. If you have four struts,
attach one just below the hinges using 2 lags per stile.
Next, put a roller into each end hinge.
9. TOP SECTION-If the door has only one strut,
attach it across the top edge of the stiles using the above instructions.
Next, locate the top edge of the adjustable top fixture 3-1/4" to
3-1/2" down from the top edge of the end stile and fast. Insert
a roller into each fixture.
10. LOCK-Since this is to be a manually operated door,
first decide which end of the door is more accessible to you when entering
the garage from the house (usually better if it's the right side) and
put the lock there. Lag the snap latch exactly midway up the end stile
of the second section, pointed end out, and with the body of the latch
flush with the end of the panel. Drill a 1/4" pilot hole clear through
the next stile out from that end of the door section, through the outside
sheet metal. Drill this out to 7/8" (exactly), and mount the lock
handle from outside with the screws provided. The flange on this locking
handle should be horizontal, not vertical. If you tighten a screw too
far and it doesn't hold, back up with the spring steel keeper provided.
Turn the handle to the horizontal position and lock it.
From the inside, mount the inside plate over the square handle stem
that protrudes in. Turn this inner handle clockwise as
far as it will go. If you are on the right end of the door, crimp
the latch cable through the upper handle hole. If on the left end,
use the lower hole. Crimp the other end of the cable to the snap
latch hole, keeping the cable fairly tight and trim off the excess
cable. Crimp the aluminum oval with a pair of vise grips.
You are now ready to assemble the shaft
11. SHAFT ASSEMBLY-From the hardware carton remove
the cable drums, and the center bearing plate. Start the set screws
into the cable drums and springs. The drums are marked LH and RH.
In order, slide the LH drum onto the tubular shaft, then the right
wound spring, the center bearing plate , the left would spring and
the RH drum. It is possible you may only have one spring. The drum's
set screws should face inward toward the set screws in the winding
cones on the ends of the springs.
Bolt the springs together through the hole in the bearing plate
with 3/8" bolts. Check that the diagonal corner will be down
when the assembly is over the door. Attach the spring caution tag
to one of the 3/8" bolts. Hand tighten the set screws to the
shaft so the springs cannot slide on the shaft.
Torsion Spring Installation
You are now ready to assemble the track
12. TRACK ASSEMBLY-Separate the track bundles.
The two curved pieces are the left and right horizontals, the two
straight ones are identical and make up the left and right vertical
assembling, keep all nuts and bolts loose.
To make the vertical assembly attach the #5 track bracket to the
lowest slotted hole set and the #6 track bracket to the middle slotted
hole set. For now the upper slotted hole set is ignored. Next, attach
the flag bracket through it's lower slot to the TOP most
two holes in the track. The flanges of these three brackets should
extend outward away from the door and not inward behind the track.
The inside cup of the track should open inward toward the door. Assemble
the vertical for the other side of the door so that when finished
the two are mirror images of each other.
Attach the horizontals to the verticals. Connect the horizontal
to the flag bracket with one 3/8" bolt. Align the horizontal
and vertical sections at the flag bracket and attach the horizontal
to the upper slot in the flag bracket. When tight the horizontal
and vertical sections should be a square. Next, attach the end bearing
plate to the horizontal track so when attached the flange is even
with the flag bracket and pointing away from the door. Tighten accordingly.
Repeat for other side. When finished they should be mirror images
of one another.
You are now ready to stack the door
13. STACKING THE DOOR-Center the bottom section
in the garage opening and hold the section in place with nails driven
into the jamb and bent over against the section. Next, using a level,
shim the panel at one end until dead level. Place each section in
the opening on top of the previous section checking and adjusting
for level each time. Finally, affix hinges and rollers to each succeeding
You should now have the complete door in the opening with all rollers
in place. It should look exactly like this.
You are now ready to track the door
tracking the door we recommend you get another person to help you
as this can be very difficult and possibly dangerous if done incorrectly.
14. TRACKING THE DOOR-First, straighten all rollers
and drape the cables up behind them to get the cable out of the way.
Work the right track assembly around the rollers.
Using 5/16" x 1-1/2" lags, mark, pre-drill, and attach
the track brackets to the wall. The track should be vertical with
1/2" clearance between it's inner edge and the door all the
way up. With the track secured, lag down the flap bracket with three
lags, keeping it vertical. Pull out the nails holding that side of
the door up and move this side of the track forward or backward (remembering
the adjustable slotted holes on the track brackets) until you have
about 1/2" clearance between the face of the door and the jamb.
Tighten all the track bolts.
Repeat this for the left side of the door.
You are now ready to mount the springs
15. SPRING MOUNTING-Place the stepladder at the
center of the door. Center the springs on the shaft assembly, making
sure to set at least one set screw so that it won't slide. Standing
at the base of the ladder, place one end of the shaft on the horizontal
track at the end bearing plate and climb the ladder. Place the end
of the shaft into the end bearing plate, sliding it until the other
end of the shaft can be set into its bearing.
is not enough clearance you may have to cut a few (no more than
5) inches off the shaft.
With the shaft entered (equal amounts of shaft left out of the end
bearings), raise the springs until the shaft is level and
mark the holes of the center plates flange onto the wood center pad.
NOTE:-If you plan to install a garage door opener
in the future, offset the center flange so the base of the opener
can be mounted.
Pre-drill two 1/4" holes. Fasten the center bearing plate to
the spring pad with 5/16" x 2-1/2" lags.
You are now ready to set the cables and drums
16. SETTING THE CABLES AND DRUMS-Set the LH drum
tight against the bearing and tighten the two set screws. Bring the
cable up to the drum, checking for a straight run from the bottom
fixture with no interference. Set the bottom end of the cable into
the slot on the drum. Turn the drum, top toward you and down, and
keep the cable firmly in the groove that starts at the slot until
the cable is tight enough to strum. Use vise grips on the shaft,
wedging their end against the wall or the ceiling to hold the cable,
drum and shaft tight.
Put the right hand cable in the RH drum, turning it on the shaft
as before to tension the cable , then tighten the set screws. The
rolling action of the set screws on this drum lends to tighten the
drum further, so "pluck" both cables when you are finished
to see if they are about the same tension. If the tension is OK and
the door still sets level you may go on to the next step. If not,
re-adjust the RH drum until they are close in adjustment.
You are now ready to wind the springs
17. WINDING THE SPRINGS-The holes on the winding
end of the spring have been drilled for 1/2" diameter
cold rolled steel 15" winding bars (not included).
Never use vise grips, pipe wrenches, socket extensions, screwdrivers,
rebar, or anything else to wind the springs except the proper winding
bars. They should be dressed fully into any of the holes on the spring
end. Stand on the ladder off to the side of the
springs so that if a bar slips or a casting breaks, the spinning
spring won't fling the bar into you. Never stand in front
of the springs when winding.
Wind the springs up. It will seem that you are trying to screw the
cast end out of the spring, but it only gets tighter. You wind by
inserting a bar into a hole on the casting and cranking the spring
out and up. Count the turns according to the following guide. While
firmly holding the winding bar, turn down the set screws until they
contact the shaft, and then 1-1/2 to 2 turns more. Do not touch ANY set
screw on a spring without a winding bar firmly in place. Remove the
vise grips and wind the other spring the same amount. If the door
seems unduly springy or "fast," ease off on the stronger
spring as much as one full turn. The door should rise smoothly without
flying up or without setting on the floor.
You are now ready to install the back hangs
18. TRACK BACK-HANGS-Gently allow the door to open
half way, making sure your horizontal tracks are not too wide, or
the door will fall out of the tracks. Center the door in the opening
and use your hammer to straighten the horizontal tracks by rapping
them at each roller, and recheck centering, keeping in mind that
the track should rise from 1/2" to 1-1/2" at the rear.
Measure the drop from the ceiling and cut the perforated angle accordingly.
The drops should be straight and plumb, both front to back and side
to side so you will probably have to drill a hole in the track somewhere
other than the very end.
Use the 5/16" bolts for the back hangs, and when done put one
more bolt through the last hole in the track, pointing inside this
time to stop the top roller from rolling out the track should the
door be opened too hard.
Mount a diagonal kicker made from perforated angle to the back hangs
at a 30 to 45 degree angle to the inside of the track.
A finished ceiling will call for a piece of angle fastened to the
hidden joists through the sheet rock, and as before, it is essential
that you pre-drill all lag holes to avoid splitting the hidden wood
in this critical area. Use a 5/16" x 2-1/2" lag screw when
applying angle to sheet rock.
You are now ready for the final door check
19. FINAL DOOR CHECK-Run the door up and down several
times, slowly as well as quickly to test for smoothness and quietness.
If you have the poly rollers, don't lubricate the track. If you have
the steel rollers, lightly lubricate the track and the roller bearings
with an oil (never a grease) every six months.
After the door installation is complete, adjust the stop to the
door in the closed position by placing the stop flush against the
door and lightly push on the door to make sure the pressure from
the stop will not hinder the door's movement. Nail the stop to the
jamb with galvanized nails, every 12".
Drill two holes through the face of the door and mount the two grab
handles back to back, one inside and one outside. Bolt the strike
plate to the track with track bolts. Remove this piece if you later
motorize the door. Adjust the clearance of the latch and plate by
moving the vertical track in or out at the center track bracket so
they engage and disengage smoothly (Refer to Step #10 for location).
Congratulations...You Are FINISHED!